9/29/2008

Outside City Lines

Nicaro

Silver Spring, MD 20910
8229 Georgia Ave
(301) 588-2867
www.nicarorestaurant.com

You might have learned by now about my non-seasonal non-pollen allergies to the MD & VA suburbs, there are only a few places in these areas that don't make me feel lost, bored and itchy - namely, Goodwill and other thrift stores, my family's house, forests, and I think that's pretty much it - until last week when I went to Nicaro in downtown Silver Spring.

The space is sparsely light and decorated, too sparsely on both counts for my taste, but it has an inviting atmosphere which is heightened by the attentive staff.

I knew Pedro Matamoros, executive chef from Tabard Inn in Washington DC, was running the show at Nicaro - so my expectations where set higher than would be with most, but they definitely were not set high enough to match the fantastic food I ate there.

These were the eats:


Oysters on the Half Shell. Pickled Shallots & Carrot Mignonette.


Buffalo Mozzarella Bocconcini. Vine Ripe Tomato. Basil. Olive Oil. Balsamic Vinegar.

Waiter says "-This is some of the best Mozzarella I've ever had" I said "-Yeah, ok, I'll be the judge of that." A bite later I am preaching the same claim. It was outstanding, and so were the perfectly ripe and sweet tomatoes.


Buttermilk Fried Calamari. Jalapeno-Cilantro Aioli. (sorry for the dark picture, I didn't want to use flash for this one and it turned out a little dark)

Waiter once again claims "-This is the best calamari I've ever had." I, once again, say "-Sure, it is buddy, you used that line with me already". A bite later I am writing notes for my review that say "Best calamari, I've ever had." Not kidding. All this time I've been thinking that fried calamari is inherently chewy, turns out I've been eating crap because Nicaro's squid is tender, the batter is light and flavorful not overwhelming or fatty or greasy, and the Jalapeno-Cilantro Aioli -WOW- I was tempted to take the left-over sauce home and eat it all by itself with my finger.


Soup of the Day - I don't remember all the ingredients but it was a mix of squash, zucchini and other roots topped with croutons and a dollop of pesto. This was the only dish that didn't impress me, specially after reading the glowing review by Tom Sietsema of the butternut squash soup. I was looking for a broth packed with flavor, which this one lacked, and the floating poorly seasoned vegetables didn't help my palate.


Pan-Seared Sea Scallops. Roasted Sunchoke. Hazelnut. Arugula. Citrus Buerre Blanc.

I've never had Sunchoke with scallops before, it was a surprisingly harmonious pairing, and the scallops were cooked to perfection.


Seafood Bouillabaisse. Shrimp. Scallops. Mussels. Fish. Fennel. Aioli.
I only tasted a bite of this bouillabaisse's broth, but the succulent flavors were all there deliciously condensed in it.

I'm so glad I experienced semi-suburban life for a night and tried this little Silver Spring gem. I forgot to mention that they also serve brunch, my favorite meal of the week - so I will MOST definitely be back for more.

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